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ANDREEA
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PostSubject: Makeup Lessons   Fri Feb 23, 2007 9:30 am

Makeup Lessons

Lesson 1: How to Prepare Your Skin For Your Best Look All day.

How your makeup looks toward the end of the day depends to a large extent on how you clean and prepare your skin at the beginning of the day. (It takes no more time to do it properly.) No matter what you use to cleanse your face (and neck), always use a Toner-Astringent afterwards, preferably with a thin washcloth…the texture of the cloth gets into the pores, removes residual oils and bacteria, and prepares your skin to absorb ALL the nutrients from the Day Cream you need to apply next. The texture of the cloth also helps stimulate circulation under the skin’s surface. (You can obtain a pack of inexpensive thin white wash clothes at most discount department stores.

A day cream applied under any makeup base should not be oily; your face will become oily too quickly throughout the day. Use a day cream that is absorbed into the pores to nourish and protect your skin all day. After application of a day cream wait a few second and lightly wipe over your face and neck to remove any excess. Only then will you be ready to apply your makeup base.

Dry Skin

Over 50 percent of women have dry skin. Never use soap and water to remove makeup from dry skin…a cream makeup remover is best. (see Oleda Liquefying Makeup Remover) If you are one who feels “unclean” without water on your face, then rinse with cool water and then apply ample moisturizing cream. Dry skin, especially, loses its moisture through dehydration and evaporation by exposure to sun, wind, and cold air. Make sure you apply a rich night cream every night. (For very dry skin see Wrinkle-Smooth Night Cream and apply it at night)

Normal Skin

Keep the moisture in your normal skin by cleansing with a cream….no water, unless you use a moisturizer cream after cleansing. After cleansing, remove all oils and bacteria from your skin with a nondrying toner/astringent to prepare for the cream. Apply a rich night cream every night.

Oily Skin

Cleansing is vital for oily skin because it keeps the pores from getting clogged. Oily skin should not be cleaned with soap. Use only cleansing products that are light in weight…no heavy creams. Scrubs with grains are great for oily skin. Always use a light moisturizing cream so that your skin is not left feeling taut or dry.

Part Dry and Part Oily (combination) Skin

The oily sections should be cleansed more often then the dry sections. A toner/astringent is most important for you to use AM and PM. Refer both to the dry-skin and oily skin routines and treat them accordingly. Carry tissues with you to pat or press down on the spots when needed. This removes the oils without adding too much powder

Lesson 2: FOUNDATION

A foundation is not just to make your skin look beautiful and more even in color. Just as important, it acts as a “protective covering” from the drying sun, wind and drying indoor heat or air conditioning, and it helps to prevent dreaded age spots. No, it is not a “sun screen,” or “sun block,” however, by using a foundation and powdering over it, so far, my skin has been protected in so many ways. I have never worn a sunscreen under or in my foundation. If enough sunscreen is in the ingredients to block the sun it changes the consistency of the formula too much. And, at age 71, I have proven my point…I’m sure it will continue to do the job for me. Don’t confuse this with needing a sun block when exposing the skin directly to the sun for sports or the beach. I do wear a hat when fly-fishing, riding and gardening. Now that I’m trying to learn to play golf, I wear one then too.

The only type makeup base that is light in texture, easy to apply, blends easily and smoothly on the skin, has a wonderful consistency, yet covers well is a liquid “aloe/oil/water” blend. A formula of aloe, oil and water is good for all types of skin: dry, normal or oily. It does not exaggerate facial lines and wrinkles by being too thick or too oily. Such a formula helps keep the product from settling into lines and wrinkles, thus making them appear deeper than they really are. Color should be a neutral tone in order to make your skin appear natural. In addition, a neutral color foundation will not compete with other makeup colors you will apply next. Foundation is the beginning…the base…of the total look “For Delicate Beauty”.

How to Apply Foundation: Use a sponge for evenness, being sure to cover the skin right up to and under the eyes and the inside corners of the eyes by the nose. So many women miss these corners where the skin is often darker and needs covering with foundation in order to even out the skin and give it a more youthful look.

Don’t forget the front of the neck. This accomplishes two things: it evens out the skin color to match the face, and it protects the skin of the neck from the elements.

It is best not to use fingers to apply foundation – fingers are warm, so they tend to open up the pores more allowing the foundation to sink deeper into the pores and then close up when the skin cools off. Also, it is much more difficult to achieve an even finish on you face using fingers. Do not apply foundation on eyelids. It will cause your eye shadow to smudge, may very well change the eye shadow’s color and will prevent it from going on evenly.

After a second or two, remove the excess foundation on the surface of the skin using a tissue ever-so-lightly over the entire face and neck. Your foundation color should be about the same color as your skin, a darker color foundation would settle into the pores making them and any facial lines or wrinkles darker, which causes them to look more prominent as the day goes on. (Your powder can be about the same color or a little darker if you like.) Now you are ready for Cream Rouge while your skin is still moist with foundation.

Later, you will powder over the foundation to give a “matt” finish and create a soft, angelic look. ANY shine left on the face makes lines and wrinkles look more obvious. To test this, take a mirror and stand at a window “side ways” before you powder. See how the shine plays up any lines and wrinkles. Then apply powder and see how they soften – almost disappear. Go ahead…test it…I’m right….yes?


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PostSubject: Re: Makeup Lessons   Fri Feb 23, 2007 9:32 am

Lesson 3: Eye Makeup, Part 1 Mascara, False Eyelashes

As we have seen proven time and again, all types of eyes can be made fascinating and beautiful. Small eyes, large, deep set eyes, and eyes that seem too close together are all very beautiful eyes when the artistry for each type is mastered.

Eye makeup emphasizes the eyes but “emphasize” does not always mean to “add;” it can also mean “take away”– such as, hiding darkness on the eye lids or under the eyes. (See Highlight) Everyone needs eye makeup - I have never known a model that was in front of a camera who was not asked to wear eye makeup…even if you could not tell by looking at the picture.

If you are not accustomed to eye makeup, be sure you experiment with it before a big event…you don’t want to rush it while you are learning. Once learned, a routine for your eye type should be simple and quick.
Mascara

Water proof – smudge proof mascara is the best to wear for obvious reasons. Anyone can wear black or brown and still keep the soft glamorous look.

How to Apply Mascara: Make sure you remove any trace of oil or cleanser from your eyelashes, eyelids and under your eyes, since oil can disturb even the best mascara. After cleansing your face, use a tissue or thin washcloth and a toner/astringent to gently remove any oils that may still be on the surface of your eyelids and lashes. Use an eyelash curler; it will give you a more open and more dramatic look. Now you are ready to apply your mascara. Apply one coat, then go back and apply a second coat. Don’t forget the bottom lashes too…that’s a must! A sin would be to have many of your eyelashes sticking together!! You must separate them!!
False Eyelashes? You Bet! Try Them!

I know. . .you don’t wear them because you don’t know how. . .or which type or color to use. . .or you have seen some that look ridiculous and you don’t want to look like “that.” (Or you may not wear them because you don’t need them…how lucky for you!) I am the mistress of false eyelashes….I wear them and have them on in all of my pictures over the past 45 years…can you tell…NO! I love them! The hardest part is to find the ones that look natural, flexible, are on a clear plastic strip, not too thick and not too thin but j-u-s-t right. You have come to the right place!

I have worn false eyelashes almost every day since I was 26 years old, I started as a model in New York. For me they provide instant glamour, and are easier to apply than you might imagine.

False lashes look real and natural if they have soft hair, are not too thick or too thin, flexible and have a CLEAR base strip that make them unnoticeable when worn. My manicurist of 10 years never knew I wore them until I called attention to them recently. They are fun, alluring and they can make you look younger! You’ll love them too!

How To Apply False Eyelashes: Make sure all oil is off your eyelids. I suggest using a Toner-Astringent with a tissue or thin washcloth to remove all oils. Then curl your own lashes. This will allow your own lashes to blend in with the false ones when applied. Next mascara your natural eyelashes (top and bottom) before applying the false ones, and they will blend in and look more natural. Apply false eyelashes after reading how below. No need to mascara the false eyelashes, but you may, if you wish...but just a little on the tip ends.

Trimming Eyelashes To Fit Your Eyes: To be sure the false eyelashes will feel comfortable on your eyelids, place each lash on a lid (without glue) to see if the strip might be too wide. I always have to trim mine a little. Snip just a few hairs at a time until you have the correct width that is shorter than your own eye width and feels comfortable.
Next, your natural eyelashes are shaped like this.



The false eyelash is shaped like this.



So trim the hair shorter toward your eye and also taper the outside few hairs shorter to give a more natural look. You will most likely want to trim the rest of the lash a little shorter in general.

IMPORTANT: When trimming, don’t cut the lashes straight across. Point the scissors into the lash and make a number of snips. This will create a slightly uneven, more natural appearance.



IF LASHES ARE TOO WIDE FOR YOUR EYES: Lift one eyelash out of the box. Holding it with both hands at the ends of the lashes, place it up to your eyelids next to your own lashes. You will most likely find the eyelashes are too wide for your eyes. (I always have to trim the width slightly.) Snip off a few hairs at one end and test it again. It is important not to have the false lashes too wide because the ends will stick into the eyelid and feel very uncomfortable …most irritating! When cut and applied correctly, you will not even know you have them on. Now trim the other one to match.

IF THE LENGTH OF THE LASHES ARE TOO LONG: The lashes will probably be too long also… so trim the length shorter –not too much – you can always go back. Point the end of the scissors downward into the top of the eyelashes and snip into the lash tips. Do not cut straight across in one swoop as you do not want an even cut…they look more natural when uneven.

Now apply eyelash glue on the clear strip part…I put a little glue on my vanity table then pick some up with a toothpick and place it on the strip part …you don’t need much. Some people squeeze the tube directly on the strip part…. (Whichever is most comfortable is fine.) Now with both hands holding the lash place it next to your own lashes. Use tweezers to adjust the lash next to your own lashes and to pull it to one side or the other if adjustment is needed. With tweezers you can also adjust the lash level upward or downward if need be. If you do this right away before the glue dries, it will be very easy to adjust. (You will have about a minute.)

After applying both false lashes, blend your natural lashes into them. You can do this with your fingers or a small eyelash or eyebrow brush. (On occasion I have been known to put a touch of glue on a spot between my own lashes and the false ones to keep a spot close together.)

HOW TO REMOVE: Hold the inside edge of the lash next to your nose, and gently, slowly, pull lash off toward your ear. If “stuck” put a drop of water on the stuck spot – wait a few seconds and pull it off.

HOW TO CLEAN: To clean false eyelashes, place them on a counter and put a few drops of water over them. After a minute or so the glue will be easy to pull off the clear strip with your fingers. Pull glue off lashes from the strip part of the lash and your lashes will last longer. (As opposed to pulling glue through the hair part of the lash) If the lashes are a little messed up, don’t worry; put them on your finger, lengthwise, and comb them out. Let dry and they will be ready to wear again. You can also place the lashes between tissues; wrap the tissue around a pencil and let dry or store.

I often sleep with mine on. Since I take tub baths (rather than a shower), they stay dry, so sometimes I leave them on when I cleanse my face at night and climb into bed. Occasionally I find one on the pillow in the morning or in my hair…but not to worry I always find it! When that happens, I simply clean them and put them back on! I have been known to say, “I’d rather be seen without my lipstick than without my false eyelashes” …and it’s true!


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PostSubject: Re: Makeup Lessons   Fri Feb 23, 2007 9:33 am

Lesson 3: Eye Makeup, Part 2 - Eyeliner and Eyebrow Pencil

Eye Liner Pencil

I don’t believe in black eyeliner for anyone except a dark tone of skin of color, otherwise the look is too heavy and hard for one even with lighter
Insert Image skin color and black hair. You will find the darker brown colors will provide the same look, but will be more delicate looking. Black is for dark skin tone beauties only. The “lead” of an eye liner pencil should be like the Goldie Locks story: it must be not too hard nor too soft…but just right! It must glide over the skin without pulling it, yet go on easily to give you the best look. This type “lead” would still be just soft enough so that, instead of having to frequently use a pencil sharpener to keep it pointed, thus losing part of the pencil each time, you could firmly pinch (and hold a few seconds) the tip to a point whenever it gets too blunt, saving the sharpener for only when needed and extending the life of the pencil.

How to apply eyeliner pencil: If you have to pull your eyelid taut in order to apply an eyeliner pencil, it usually means the pencil’s “lead” is too hard; although it’s normal to hold the eyelid on one side so that it stays in place while applying eyeliner

Start at either corner of the eyelid, but make sure you color the entire width of the lid. Applying eyeliner all the way toward the nose gives the eyes a softer, more open look…but apply it only lightly, and more narrowly going toward the nose to keep a soft look. You can smudge the eyeliner slightly if you like.

How to apply liquid eyeliner: Follow the instruction above for eyeliner pencil except use liquid more sparingly.

If you are wearing false lashes follow the same instructions as above for eyeliner. (Make it a soft line, not
thick or hard looking.) Continue the eyeliner a little past your false lashes toward your nose, tapering off as you get close to it.



For bottom eyeliner apply softly…can apply in a dot like effect. Do NOT go too close to the nose – stop about 1/3 from the nose. Apply wider and a little darker if you wish as you get to the outside corner of the lower lid. Keep the bottom eyeliner soft looking…nothing thick or heavy.
Eye Brow Pencil

You see someone from across the room, or on the street, you look at them and wonder, “Now why would they ever do that!” But the truth is…you might be doing it yourself…I know I have. More Americans mess up their eyebrows than people in any other country for some reason.

I’m not being picky! Many women have very nice eyebrows…but for the ones that can’t get it right, this will help. It’s much easier if you have the right consistency in the eyebrow pencil…too hard and the pencil does not come off onto the skin well…and it’s too difficult to use; too soft and you cannot get a delicate looking eyebrow. It comes off too thick. The consistency of the “lead” is most important for a great looking eyebrow.

Eyebrows can give your face an older, harder look, or they can give a younger, softer, beautiful look that acts as a frame for your shape and type of eyes. Eyebrows can also make your eyes appear smaller or larger.

Difficulty with proper eyebrow shape and color is often because of focusing on the eyebrows per se, rather than how they can be most flattering to the shape of their individual eyes and face. When you finish your eyebrows step back from the mirror and look at your face from a distance…do your eyebrows look overpowering or too dark for your face…or are they too pale…do they look alike?

Eyebrows are modifiers…they are eye beautifiers. They exist to complement and enhance one of the most expressive of human attributes, the look of the eyes. They should not overpower the face or draw attention to themselves. They should flatter the face but at the same time enhance the shape of the eyes. Have you ever seen someone with, for example, brown hair, and, before you noticed anything else about them, you saw two black “lines” above their eyes (called eyebrows)? Well I have, and I’ve seen even worse! Bet you have too.

Observe some classic paintings by the Masters, like Rembrandt, Renoir, da Vinci and Rubens. Note how these great painters treated the eyebrows of the women in their art in understatement and accompaniment…forget about Mona Lisa!

Just keep in mind that the basic rule is to use your eyebrows to beautify your eyes. Beauty-wise your eyebrows are part of your eyes. Eyebrows should be delicate and soft looking, not overpowering and distracting.

Note: NOTE: HOW TO MAKE YOUR MAKEUP PENCILS LAST LONGER: Instead of using a pencil sharpener every time, which causes a loss of “lead,” you can firmly pinch the tip of the lead and squeeze it while holding it firmly for a few seconds. The heat of your fingers will press the lead into a more pointed tip, saving the sharpening only for when really needed.
How to Apply Eyebrow Pencil: Use short, light, upward, quick strokes for each “hair,” allowing them to blend together. Feathering your pencil strokes with an upward outward motion will make them look like your own hair (provided you powder over them as explained below). Never draw the pencil through the whole eyebrow in one stroke. To make my eyebrows even more natural looking…I often use a little darker color pencil and add a few extra strokes for contrast.



As for color, choose an eyebrow pencil that somewhat matches or takes on the color of your hair. Never use black, even if your hair is black unless you have dark skin of color. Keep your eyebrow pencils, pointed or just slightly blunted for a more natural look.

Final and very important step: Once eyebrows are completed, powder over them very lightly against the direction of the hair. This will give them a softer, more natural look. Then, with two fingers, brush upward toward the forehead and nose to remove excess powder and restore the hair to its natural position. You could buy an eyebrow brush for this purpose, but your fingers are just as good—and faster.

To make your eyes appear larger and more open, don’t have your eyebrows “sitting” low toward your eyes. Instead, keep sufficient space between your eyes and your eyebrows by plucking clean from underneath the brows. But don’t pluck too much so as to make them too thin. If you have bushy eyebrows, then you might need to trim the tops to keep the length short and to make them less thick



The shape of your eyebrows should be in a slight arch wider toward your nose and thinning toward the temples. The peak of the arch should generally be about ¾ of the distance of the width of your eye toward the temple. The length of the brow is determined by the width of your eyes. Begin your eyebrows about where your eyes begin inside your nose and end them just beyond where your eyes end toward your temples.



If you have small eyes, do not wear thick eyebrows. They’ll cause your eyes to look smaller. Thinner brows will allow smaller eyes to appear larger. (But don’t overdo it.)

If eyes are too close together, create a slightly larger space between your eyebrows than you normally would. Not too great a space, just enough to give a more open look.



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PostSubject: Re: Makeup Lessons   Fri Feb 23, 2007 9:35 am

Lesson 3: Eye Makeup, Part 3 - Eye Shadow

My personal suggestion: I apply eye shadow just before applying foundation. When applying powdered eye shadow, it often falls onto the foundation, and then needs to be removed. It’s easier I have learned simply to apply the eye shadow first and then put on the foundation, thus eliminating the problem, however that is a personal choice.

Matte eye shadow with high pigment for longer lasting color throughout the day is best. Unless you have “protruding” eyes you need an off white shadow along with a darker color (see below for protruding eyes). Eye shadow should be worn to enhance your eyes’ type and shape. One should never wear a bright color or iridescent color that stands out like a Xmas bulb! It’s the beauty of the entire face that is important…colors selected should enhance the face, or to change the shape of the eye, or make them appear larger. A blue, iridescent eyelid will not get the job done!

How To Apply Eye Shadow: Remove all oil from the upper eyelids. You can do this with astringent using a tissue or wash cloth. Removing the oil helps the eye make-up stay in place and be less likely to crease or smudge. Powdered eye shadow should be applied with a tiny sponge or a small, narrow brush.

First, apply an off-white or light beige eye shadow on the eyelid itself. Do not go above the eyelid crease with the light color. (See illustration)

Next, a darker color eye shadow should be applied on and above the crease. Special eye types and how to make them more exciting:

Make eyes look larger: Apply an off-white eye shadow on the upper eyelid bringing it all the way to the inside corner next to the nose. Now apply a darker eye shadow in and above the eye socket. Bring it around the outs ide corner and into the bottom of the eye about one third of the way tapering off into the bottom lashes. Now taper the darker shadow toward the nose on the upper eyelid making it very narrow toward the nose.
Make sure you smudge the edges so there are no lines of demarcation at the edge of the shadow. You can smudge the outside lines with a tissue or your finger



Eyelids too dark or deep set eyes: Apply off-white eye shadow from the inner corners of the upper lids to the outside corners. If wearing a darker shadow on and above the eye socket, use sparingly.



Eyelids too heavy or prominent: Apply a dark eye shadow on the upper eyelids. You might like to try a lighter shade above the eyelid.



Eyes too close together: Give the illusion of wider set eyes by applying off- white eye shadow on the inner 1/3 corners of the eyelids up to the nose. Apply a darker eye shadow on lids on the outside 2/3 of the upper lids.



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PostSubject: Re: Makeup Lessons   Tue Feb 27, 2007 3:56 pm

oh Queen
like a real teacher
thx sweety for these lessons
Wink

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PostSubject: Re: Makeup Lessons   Tue Feb 27, 2007 5:14 pm

hehhe
u r welcome princess

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